January 2011 Cruise from Antigua to St. Martins in the Leeward Islands
by Andy Cross

If you read our account of the first part of this cruise - from St. Martins to Antigua - then you know how much fun we have on these great adventures. Here's what we did on Leg 2, from Antigua back to St. Martins.

With only 36 hours between the two trips, the Sunsail crew did an incredible job turning over our three Jeanneau 44s and getting everything ready for our second group of sailors to board. 

Ready to go by  5 p.m. January 17, we moved back onto Isobard with our new mate Roos “Rose” Petersen.  Henry Stewart, who was on the first leg, moved to L’Equateur with Rick Kolber and Gordon Schaefering.  And William Owens, Pauli Young and Bonnie Urbanski took over LeDiablotin.

That night, after settling in aboard at English Harbour, we took a walk towards Falmouth Harbour for dinner at Trappa’s. 

The meal was enjoyable and we were glad to get there when we did as it was soon packed.  The appetizers, curries, seafood, and drinks were first-rate at this spot that came highly recommended by Sunsail staffers.

Sunny skies and a fresh breeze

The next morning after breakfast we topped off our ice supplies and met with Sunsail branch manager Sylvan for our navigation and boat briefings.  His tips on how to avoid struggles with customs and itinereary tweaks paid off immensely during the week. 

We cast off our med moorings at noon on January 18 with sunny skies and a fresh breeze.  Outside the entrance to English Harbour we hoisted our mains and unfurled genoas, starting out on a closehauled port tack for a few miles before tacking over to starboard for the remaining seven miles to Green Island on the northwesterly coast of Antigua.  

As we approached Green Island the water turned into beautiful aquamarine and our fleet slipped single file through a reef to starboard and some exposed rocks to port. We rounded into the lee of the island to drop our anchors in Nonsuch Bay, named for the HMS Nonsuch, which landed in the bay in the mid 1600’s.

Safely settled in on our hooks, we began the typical Caribbean cruising routine; swimming, anchor checks, sundowners, relaxing in the cockpit, and stern showers. 

The crew of Isobard swam around to greet each boat, then went off for a challenging swim against the current to the deserted beach at Green Island.

Watching one of the best sunsets on the trip, we enjoyed a burger dinner and boat beers in the cockpit of LeDiablotin as a picturesque full moon rose in the dark night sky. 

Bound for Barbuda

The island of Barbuda was our destination on day two. Sylvan had recommended we leave early in order to make it to the shoal/reef waters of Cocoa Bay by early afternoon. 

Anchors were up by 8 a.m. as we sailed an absolutely dreamy beam reach in a warm 15-20 knot breeze for 30 miles.  Our fleet got a bit spread out so Isobard hove-to for lunch, finished the sail with LeDiablotin and then met L’Equateur near Cocoa Bay.  

Barbuda is unlike most other Caribbean islands in the area, completely flat with its highest point only reaching 125 ft above sea level, so we didn’t spot it until we were about 5 miles out.  The island is not volcanically born as are most other island in the area. It is formed of coral and limestone surrounded by reef and mangrove.  The sandy bottom gives the water an amazing hue and the beaches have a beautiful pink tint to them.

That afternoon the crews swam, enjoying the warm breeze and water.  I ventured over to Diablo to diagnose and then fix some issues with their steering quadrant and dual helm.  No worries though, after spending time working in that cramped space I was rewarded with an ice-cold beverage. 

The evening was again dedicated to a group dinner, this time aboard Isobard with several variations of chicken on the grill and some rum soaked grilled pineapple for dessert.

Sea turtles, frigates and stunning 11 Mile Beach

We enjoyed breakfast in the cockpit while sea turtles surfaced around our boat; then set off on a gorgeous 10 mile sail up the western shore to Low Bay and stunning 11 Mile Beach.  When all anchors were set, a shore party from each boat explored the town of Codrington, while skippers cleared out with customs.

To get to town from Low Bay we landed on the beach then hailed a water taxi for a quick ride across Codrington Lagoon to the town. Our friendly taxi drive, Goldilocks, became our tour guide, walking with us from the port authority office to customs and then immigration, which were spread around the small town. 

After successfully clearing out we got block ice from a lady who freezes 2-½ gallon water jugs in a freezer on her porch. Goldilocks then ferried part of the group back to Low Bay and others decided to go on a water tour of the frigate bird sanctuary, guided and narrated by none other than Goldie himself.

That afternoon/evening was spent swimming and taking in the beautiful pink beach.  The next day would be our longest sail of this trip (60 miles) so our plan was to have anchors up 6 a.m.  Dinners were done on individual boats and the crews retired early in preparation for our sail to Nevis.

Good wind to St. Kitts and Nevis

All crews were up and ready bright and early, weighing anchor at or slightly before our scheduled departure time.  Winds were light out of the east as we motored out of Low Bay and motor sailed under the main until we got out away from Barbuda and the sun and breeze were up. 

I rigged a preventer with spare line and we unfurled the genoa sailing wing ‘n’ wing for a better part of the day, sometimes surfing up to 9 knots in the deep blue swell.  

This was an amazingly beautiful down wind sail.  I rotated between tweaking the sails, sticking my nose in a book, and adjusting our coarse as needed. 

By mid- afternoon the pass between the northern tip of Nevis and southern edge of St. Kitts was clear so we jibed the genoa over and broad reached between the two islands. 

The wind was good as we rounded the leeward side of Nevis and we sailed right up to the mooring field of Pinney’s Beach before dousing sails. By now it was about  4 p.m. and I jumped into the dinghy to talk to all the crews and make all was well. 

Consensus on sunset was to take it in beach side at Sunshine’s Beach Bar while sipping a “Killer Bee.” Our nightly meal was done on Isobard savoring grilled steaks accompanied by potatoes, red wine, and some good story telling. 

A lazy day at anchor on Nevis

The first order of business on our fifth day was for skippers to dinghy in and clear customs in Charlestown, Nevis.  While Henry, Bill and I did the deed, Rick cooked up omelets aboard L’Equateur that were apparently out-of-this-world. 

To avoid another customs stop in nearby St. Kitts we decided to check in and out of Nevis at the same time, thus, giving us an extra day in Nevis which turned out well for everyone as time on Nevis was well spent - a much-appreciated lazy day after our 60-mile sail yesterday. 

We all kicked back, toured town, strolled the beach, and ate lunch and sipped drinks at beach bars.  Nighttime brought another meal onboard, this time it was grilled salmon on Diablo while listening to reggae and dance music from a party in town that seemed to never end.

Jamming on a broad reach to Statia

After a pleasant night sleep we were up-and-at-it early and refreshed with sails set by 8:30 a.m.; jamming on a broad reach towards St. Eustatia. Our fleet sailed in unison until the wind got fluky and light on the lee side of St. Kitts.  Once we cleared the headland though the winds shot up to a consistent 15 knots and we made great time getting into Oranjestad, St. Eustatia, or “Statia” as it is locally known, by 2 p.m.

That afternoon in Statia crews were again free to explore the island.  Some decided to relax aboard while others were eager to find out what was going on with the NFL playoff games.  I worked on mainsail repairs aboard Diablo then joined the crew of Isobard, snorkeling and checking anchors before a stern shower and savoring a sundowner prior to our dinner plans ashore.

Dinner that evening was spent at a bayside bistro called the Blue Bead.  All crews were in attendance, delighting in delicious seafood and pasta dishes.  It was pretty much the only place open Sunday night on thos island so it worked out well.

Hiking the Quill Volcano

Planning to spend the morning in Statia, the crew of Isobard got ambitious and decided to hike The Quill volcano starting at 6 a.m. so we could complete the three hour roundtrip and have some time to swim before heading off for Ille Fourche. 

We took the dinghy ashore to hike the bluff in the dark then a quick jaunt through town brought us to The Quill trailhead.  Switchbacks meandered through a thick canopy as it became more rocky and steeper towards the top. The hike was well worth the effort as beautiful panoramic views and a peak inside the crater awaited.

Upon our return to Isobard a swim was well deserved. The other crews were up and preparing for the day ahead.  Our last long sail of our cruise would take us 28 miles northeast to the island/marine park of Ille Fourche resting between St. Martin and St. Barts. 

We started off closehauled from Statia and sailed well for about four hours until the wind backed on us.  At that point our proximity to Ille Fourche was close enough that motor sailing became the best option. With mains doused  as we neared, each boat picked up a mooring ball well protected from a stiff breeze. That was our last night aboard which ended up being pretty low key.  Isobard's crew made lasagna and crashed early due to our morning expedition up The Quill.  Other boats put together what was left of their provisions and turned in early as well.

Our final sail, destination St. Martin

We slipped off our moorings at 8 a.m. for our final sail back to Oyster Pond, St. Martin (where we started two weeks ago on our first leg of this odyssey). The wind was up around 20 knots and our Jeanneau 44’s covered the eight-mile beam reach in good time. When we arrived in Oyster Pond the Sunsail staff put us on the fuel dock then into our final slips for offloading our gear and provisions. 

Some crewmembers were off to catch flights on the other side of the island while others checked into Captain Oliver’s Resort or other accommodations ashore. After hugs and goodbyes, Jill and I did the same then met our mate Roos at the Dinghy Dock Sailor Bar in the marina for  final cheers. 

This trip was a wonderful expression of Caribbean cruising. Our week was spent sailing in warm breezy weather with good companions, dinners together were a highlight, and time was well spent on each island. 

Jill and I cannot say enough how much we enjoyed our time sailing, story telling, and laughing with each of our new friends.  Thank you to everyone who helped make it great. 

Next Cruising Club destination — Belize!

Mike Huffer, manager of our British Virgin Islands sailing branch, will join Steve and Doris Colgate as leaders of this fabulous adventure. Won't you join us?